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Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this 'forgotten' Austrian gem

by Fraser Wilkin, 23 March 2024

Back in the 90s, the Austrian ski and spa resort of Bad Gastein was a household name with British skiers, featuring in all our main ski holiday brochures, and attracting the rich and famous to both its slopes and ‘healing waters’.

 

Ever-popular on the continent, it seemed to fall out of favour with some of the larger UK tour operators for a while, but it’s now starting to make a comeback.

I was finally fortunate enough to visit back in January, and was not disappointed!

View over the town of Bad Gastein, Austria, with its grand Belle Epoque buildings and snow-covered mountainside beyond - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem With its grand Belle Epoque buildings, Bad Gastein is like no other resort in Austria- Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 2 January 2024

It may not conform to many of the Austrian ski resort stereotypes - Bad Gastein is very much a town and not a village - but what it lacks in traditional Alpine atmosphere, it more than makes up for in quirky ‘belle époque’ charm. What's more, its skiing is more extensive than you might think and, being relatively high (by eastern Alpine standards), is also surprisingly reliable for snow.

 

Here are the top 5 reasons why Bad Gastein should be on your skiing shortlist next winter:

1. The ski area offers impressive extent and variety of slopes!

Bad Gastein is the southernmost of the three main ski resorts in the Gastein valley, with Bad Hofgastein just 7km to its north, and Dorfgastein another 8km beyond. Together the valley offers an impressive 208km of pistes across five distinct ski areas. 

 

Immediately above Bad Gastein itself is the Stubnerkogel sector, served by an efficient gondola starting right next to the train station. As most of the runs here are of red gradient, this is a mountain best appreciated by confident intermediates, with the few “true blues” tending to take the form of paths criss-crossing the mountain.

In keeping with the Gastein valley as a whole, many of the runs are long, with drops of 1000m or more on both sides of the mountain and plenty of scope for off-piste.

 

My favourite descent in this sector was the thigh-burning B11 “Angertal” run from the 2246m summit of the Stubnerkogel all the way down to Angertal at 1175m. If you have a head for heights, be sure to take in the astounding 360° panoramic views from the 28m-high Stubnerkogel suspension bridge before you set off!

View of the Stubnerkogel suspension bridge and panoramic snow-covered mountain scenery in Bad Gastein, Austria - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The 28m high suspension bridge at the top of the Stubernkogel ski area affords magnificent views in all directions - Photo: gastein.com
Terrace of the Gipfelrestaurant Stubner at the top of the Stubnerkogel ski area in Bad Gastein, Austria - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The less fainthearted can also enjoy panoramic views from the terrace of the Gipfelrestaurant Stubner at the top of the Stubnerkogel ski area - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 3 January 2024
Top of the Stubnerkogel ski area in Bad Gastein looking towards Schlossalm, Austria - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem View from the top of the Stubnerkogel ski area looking towards Schlossalm - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 6 January 2024
View of Bad Gastein, Austria from the bottom of the Stubnerkogel ski area, with one of the last single chairlifts in operation in the Alps - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem Bad Gastein boasts one of the last single chairlifts in operation in the Alps, at the bottom of its Stubnerkogel ski area - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 3 January 2024

The slopes of Bad Gastein are completely integrated with the slopes of Bad Hofgastein, with the former's Stubnerkogel sector merging fairly seamlessly into the Schlossalm area above Bad Hofgastein, via Angertal. This is another major lift entry point into the ski area, popular with locals but which lacks its own accommodation.

View of chairlift and open bowl ski slopes of the upper section of the Schossalm ski area in Bad Gastein, Austria - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The upper section of the Schlossalm sector offers lots of high, open bowl skiing - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 3 January 2024

The Schlossalm area is also extensive, varied and best suited to confident intermediates who will particularly enjoy the “away from it all” 1450m vertical red H1/H2/H2a run (“Hohe Scharte Nord/Kleine Scharte/Aeroplan”) from the top of Schlossalm down to the valley floor in Bad Hofgastein. This is no doubt one of the greatest intermediate runs in Austria.

Sign at the start of the Hohe Scharte Nord run in Bad Gastein, one of the longest downhill runs in the Salzburg region of Austria at 10.4km with a 1457m vertical - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The Hohe Scharte red run down to Bad Hofgastein is one of the longest and best intermediate runs in Austria - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 3 January 2024
View of the cloud filled valley in Bad Gastein, Austria, with blue skies above from the top section of the wonderful Hohe Scharte piste - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The top section of the wonderful Hohe Scharte piste offers a spectacular view of the Gastein valley - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 3 January 2024
View of the lower wooded section of the Hohe Scharte red run, ending in the resort of Bad Hofgastein in the valley below - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The lower wooded section of the Long Hohe Scharte red run ends in Bad Hofgastein in the valley below - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 3 January 2024

Further down the valley is the village of Dorfgastein, whose sizeable area of skiing is completely separated from the slopes of Bad Gastein and Bad Hofgastein, but shared with the ski resort of Grossarl, located in a completely different valley to the east.

 

This highly varied area offers slightly gentler terrain than either Stubnerkogel or Schlossalm, with more trees - great in a storm - and a more family-orientated atmosphere. It may be 20-30 minutes away from Bad Gastein by bus (free with a guest card, available at all hotels), but it is well worth the visit, especially on days when visibility is poor.

View of snow-covered trees and slopes, with snow falling on the tree-lined slopes of the Dorfgastein ski area in the Gastein valley, Austria - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The heavily wooded slopes of the Dorfgastein ski area are ideal when it is snowing and visibility is poor - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 6 January 2024

Those after fast-cruising on wide, open and immaculately-groomed slopes should definitely visit the Sportgastein area, a 20-25 minute bus journey to the south of Bad Gastein. Often overlooked by tourists, but a firm favourite with the locals, the runs here are also long (up to 1000m vertical) and often have the best snow in the area.

 

This emerged as my favourite ski area in the valley - in part thanks to the great snow conditions, but also for its wilder ‘away-from-it-all feel’ , located at the southern head of a dead-end valley with no resort base as such – just one main lift (with mid-station) serving a series of long, sweeping runs which are great for notching up huge verticals.

View of the Sportgastein ski area in the Gastein valley, Austria, which ski lifts and snow-covered pistes and panoramic mountain views - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The Sportgastein sector has the highest skiing and wildest feel of all the ski areas in the Gastein valley - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 4 January 2024
Blue skies above the snow-covered wide, open slopes of the Sportgastein ski area in the Gastein valley, Austria - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The wide, open pistes in Sportgastein are ideal for high-speed cruising or carving - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 4 January 2024

Last, but not least, is the tiny but underrated Graukogel area, accessible by chairlift on the eastern side of town. This area gets very little sun early in the winter, and it was indeed closed during our visit due to icy conditions.

 

In good snow, though, the Graukogel sector offers some long and challenging runs of up to 1000m vertical and, being often ignored by visitors, can be blissfully uncrowded. 

Blue skies above the Graukogel ski area above Bad Gastein, Austria, viewed from the Stubnerkogel sector - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem View towards the underused Graukogel ski area from the Stubnerkogel sector of Bad Gastein - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 3 January 2024

2. Bad Gastein is more snow-sure than most Austrian ski resorts

Bad Gastein has a better snow record than you might think, firstly thanks to its  top height of over 2600m - impressive by Austrian standards, where many big name ski areas struggle to top 2000m.

Great snow conditions on the ski slopes of Sportgastein, Austria, with skiers in the foreground - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem Great snow conditions on the high pistes of Sportgastein - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 4 January 2024

Secondly, being set so deep in the eastern Alps, it has a “continental" climate offering greater protection from warm Atlantic winds than resorts further west or close to the northern foothills of the Alps, which are more susceptible to rain.

View of gondola in Sportgastein, Austria, with inviting-looking chalky, powdery snow between the pistes - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem Inviting-looking, chalky powdery snow between the pistes in Sportsgastein - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 4 January 2024

For the very best snow conditions in the area, head to Sportgastein, where the slopes face north-west and the top height is 2686m. On our visit in January 2024, although there was still plenty of good skiing to be enjoyed in other parts of the Gastein valley, the snow quality in Sportgastein was exceptional from top to bottom.

3. Bad Gastein is surprisingly easy to get to

A quick look at the map and you'll see that Bad Gastein is set quite deeply into the Austrian Alps, about half-way between the German border (to the north) and the Slovenian border to the south. However, if you think that might make it difficult to get to, think again!

The nearest airport, Salzburg, is just 90 minutes away by car, and Munich airport is less than 2 hours away, traffic-permitting. Even more appealing is the fact that you can travel here easily by train from right across Europe - great for keeping down your carbon footprint!

 

If you have flown in to the nearest airport, Salzburg, it's no more than a 15-20 minute bus or taxi ride from there to Salzburg central railway station, from where you can pick up regular direct trains to Bad Gastein. This train journey also takes just 90 minutes and leaves you in the heart of resort, right next to the main lifts!

4. Bad Gastein is uniquely quirky and steeped in history

Bad Gastein is like no other resort. While the area around the lift hub (which includes the train station) may feel quite ‘towny’, just a few steps away from the main road you are suddenly immersed in a vision of beautifully restored belle époque hotels, clinging dramatically to the hillside, like a backdrop to a Wes Anderson film (one of the resort's hotels indeed said to be the inspiration for the 'Grand Budapest Hotel').

View of some of the beautifully restored Belle Epoque buildings after fresh snowfall in Bad Gastein, Austria - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The centre of Bad Gastein is full of beautifully restored 'Belle Epoque' buildings - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 6 January 2024
View of buildings clinging the cliff-side and steep streets in the snow-covered centre of Bad Gastein, Austria - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem Away from the main road and lift station, Bad Gastein has a distinctly 'olde-worlde' charm - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 5 January 2024
View of the Silver Bullet bar and restaurant in Bad Gastein, Austria - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The Silver Bullet is a favourite après-ski spot in Bad Gastein - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 4 January 2024

Central to this scene is the town’s gurgling river and spectacular steaming waterfall which plunges right through the centre of town, in three stages with a vertical drop of 341 meters. It is these hot, mineral-rich waters, emerging from the ground at over 46°C,  that gave Bad Gastein its fame and have attracted visitors (including many A-list celebrities) from around the world for decades.

One section of the three-stage waterfall which descends 341m vertical through the centre of Bad Gastein, Austria - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The spectacular waterfall at the bottom of the valley tumbles 341m through the centre of Bad Gastein - Photo: weathertoski.co.uk, 5 January 2024

The key active ingredient is radon, a naturally occurring radioactive gas produced by all rocks, which is considered safe at low levels and with short-term exposure. It is claimed to cure all manner of ills, and is recognised by the Austrian health authorities and insurance companies as a legitimate therapy for chronic pain.  Treatment with these radon-rich waters is regulated and not permitted in the public spa baths, but can be arranged by private appointment in specific clinics in town.

5. Bad Gastein offers plenty to do off the slopes

For daytime activities off the slopes, the Gastein valley offers extensive winter walking trails, including the stunning path along the Gasteiner Ache leading through the entire valley, from Bad Gastein to Dorfgastein, with great train and bus connections to take you back to base if you don't fancy re-tracing your steps. Even just wandering around the resort itself offers fantastic scenic views of its stunning waterfall and to the valley beyond.

 

Another obvious but clearly unmissable off-slope attraction are the valley’s thermal baths – you can’t visit a ski resort with ‘Bad’ in its name without sampling its spa, especially if you have children. There are in fact two public “baths” in the valley, one in Bad Hofgastein, the other in Bad Gastein. Like most resort spas they are a bit touristy and do get crowded at peak times.

Nevertheless, after some initial apprehension, our visit to the Felsentherme Bad Gastein  proved a big hit with our teens, who effortlessly wiled away the best part of two hours in the assortment of indoor and outdoor pools, waterslides and under the impressive indoor waterfall

 

Other non-skiing activities here include skating and a 2.5km toboggan run served by its own chairlift that operates well into the evening. 

View of one of the steaming heated outdoor pools at the modern Felsentherme Bad Gastein spa baths in Bad Gastein, Austria - Weather to ski - Our blog: Bad Gastein - 5 reasons to visit this forgotten gem The famous Bad Gastein baths offer a range of indoor and outdoor heated and unheated pools - Photo: felsentherme.com

Bad Gastein - key facts:

Resort height:

1002m

Slopes:

860-2682m  

Pistes:

250km

Further info:

www.gastein.com

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